Thai Mountain Coffee As a self-confessed coffee addict I had just traveled across the mountains of Thailand's Northern by motorcycle to find out a little more about the origins of the dark and mysterious brew which I, and many others I suspect, consider to be something of an elixir. Without doubt the journey had been worthwhile- traveling to the heart of the Kingdom's North is always an adventure providing unrivaled motorcycle action for "off-road" enthusiasts like myself. Once again the rugged terrain had delivered the goods-a glimpse of the valley below, revealed through rising mist and framed by towers of bamboo, was continuing to climb. Undeterred by the testing landscape and spurred on by the fact that an excellent cup of coffee was sure to be offered upon arrival, I gave the engine yet another "fist full of gas". In the past coffee growing up Thailand was based in the South where Robusta beans are grown. This variety thrives in lowland areas, is easy to grow, and has a high caffeine content but no depth of flavor. As a result it is mainly uses for instant or blended coffee. Here in the North, as part of a program to stamp out the opium crops, production of coffee was introduced a few years ago-along with strawberries, oranges and roses. At the time it was not deemed a great success and when support for the project ended, the farmers, who had initially only been involved as growers, had no market for the raw beans, and bushes were eventually abandoned. Times are changing with many companies now following the example of Duang Dee coffee and purchasing these fine coffee beans. The benefits of growing the bean can also be clearly seen in many of the hill tribe villages that are scattered among the mountainous North. Approaching a Karen village with the manger of Duang Dee coffe (another coffe addict) We parked at the foot of the mountain and realized the legwork was about to begin. The road was thick with mud and impassable even on a motorcycle designed for the job. As I attempted the steep ascent on foot many of the villagers were coming down, admittedly looking for less weary than myself, heading for the stepped rice fields in the valley below. Pausing for a moment to catch my breath and acknowledge the nods and smiles, I looked out over the fields of golden strands soon to be cut down in their prime. The village itself was perched among the peaks and troughs of this striking landscape, a cluster of traditional wooden housing raised on stilts and providing welcome shade for local pigs that offered forth the occasional satisfied grunt. Contentment was not theirs alone however, as coffee was on offer in this village-even if it did come from our thermos flask! Clutching a cup of full-bodied, steaming hot Thai coffee surrounded by the cool mountain air, soaking up the aroma and the view, was a moment worth waiting for. At this time of year the lush fertile hillsides are speckled with clusters of red and yellow ripening coffee berries, draped like Christmas tree lights across the branches. The evergreen Arabica trees advance down the slopes, right up to the edge of the village, occupying any available space and flourishing in the shade of other trees. Altitude and climate both have a part to play, encouraging the berry to mature slowly, producing a smaller bean with less moisture and a better flavors. So be sure to get the mountain grown beans The Karen in this village pick the coffee by hand on a daily basis once it begins to ripen. Clambering around the hills with buckets and baskets, their bright pink clothing is a wonderfully stark contrast to the deep green backdrop of foliage. The gathered berries are processed in small batches; soaked in water overnight and pounded in a traditional krok- a hoollowed-out tree stump-to re move the skins. The hard bean survives the ordeal intact, to be washed clean and then dried in the sun. The resulting raw green bean is then sold to the Duang Dee Coffee Company which hand roasts the coffee at its facility in Prao district. They where amoung the first gourmet coffee roasting companies in northern Thailand. The villagers are full of pride for the part that they play in this product, and one of the local women even graces the cover of the box. Their village however is just one of dozens of hill tribe communities that pepper the northern terrain and contribute to the growing popularity of specialist coffees from this area. Lisu, Hmong and Lahu people are also involved, and Duang Dee is working closely with them, planting more coffee bushes every year. Thailand may not be the first country that springs to mind when coffee is mentioned, but as I said, times have changed. Quality coffee is here-I'll take mine with milk, no sugar, and preferably halfway up the side of a mountain where the best coffee is grown. Thanks to Sawasdee Magazine. And Thai Airways.com Mick Shippen the writer Internet Story editor Sa Srimoon